Shap to Kirkby Stephen, 21 miles.
The proprietor made us laugh the next morning. He walked into the busy breakfast room and announced that he'd be holding free physical training sessions on the front lawn for the walkers. He knew most had a big step yesterday and with 20 miles ahead today, the look on the faces of those who took him seriously was a joy. I just love that sense of humour.
Today was what I've since thought of as the big sky day. Lot's of flat walking and big vistas. Clear, dry and not too windy. Again, it was just us and the landscape.
My foot was starting to hurt. Although, like most walkers I can get the odd few aches and pains, I've been fortunate never to suffer from prolonged leg problems; they've always done what's intended without complaint yet my foot would get worse and require a healthy shots of pain killers for the next two days.
I can't remember much about the day except I'm sure Pete left his hat on a stone when we stopped for coffee at a limestone outcrop. It's always interesting to look back at the kit you were using at the time. That rucksack soldiered on for a few more years and the coat.....well that coat I'm still using. Purchased in Grasmere in 1992 for £80 in a sale (a lot of money then), it's Goretex lined and still going strong while not quite perhaps cutting such a fashionable dash. Not that I care, it still keeps the rain and wind off better than some newer coats I've seen.
We enjoyed fine weather and great views before strolling into Kirkby Stephen at about 3.30pm. We stocked up at the shops before finding the Jolly Farmers, our resting stop.
The guest house was full in part due to a large C2C party from the USA who were staying there for several days while being transported to and from starting points. They were making the opposite traverse and we passed them two days later. We tried to engage some of their number but they seemed to prefer their own company. Our solitary walking friend was still the only walker we'd passed on the trail and he was leaving after that day (he'd only planned to walk half) so we joined him to toast his farewell.
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